The first thing to undertake with Project Dandy was to try and strip as much excess off the trailer as possible, allowing room to get at everything.It would also make is much easier to turn the trailer upside down so that I could get at the frame, underneath, plus all the trailer panels will be replaced too.
Tip: It is better to use screwdriver, so as not to wreck the head of the screw. If you do use an electric screw driver, ensure that it is set to a low speed/torque minimising the chance of it destroying the head as it keenly accelerates.
I would also strongly advise that you have a second set of hands available because at times it can be a bit of a balancing act, especially when it comes to removing the door and back panels.
There is a slideshow of few photos I took.
Removing the canvas:
There are 5 pieces of PVC canvas; the top and the 4 sides.
The top is fixed at the left hand end, as you look at the Dandy. There is a baton, inside the canvas, that is screwed to the bed-frame.
Just unscrew the seven screws and ensure they are free from the frame. The white strip, that hangs down, should remain attached to the frame.
Ensure that the ropes that pull the top tight have been released, along with the guy ropes.
You should now be able to feed the roof over the top of the frame work (I left all the struts in place).
Fold the roof neatly, or roll it up, trying not to create too many creases in it.
The sides are all attached in much the same way.
Make sure that all the elasticated loops have been released, freeing the bottom and left side.
Unscrew the screws and remove the white strip. This will leave the panels in place.
Underneath where you have removed the white strips, the material is stapled to the wood. You can select your own way to remove the staples, but I found that the least destructive way was to use a Stanley blade and cut along one edge of the staple. I then pulled gently away from the staple, and cut the other side. This method leaves a small hole about the size of the staple.
You can then undo the nut/bolt that goes through the woodwork. I found that standing inside the trailer meant that I could reach my hand over with a large screwdriver whilst attaching the nut with an adjustable.
There is also a screw at the opt, also holding the bar in place. Undo that, keeping hold of the bar.
It should now be possible to remove the panel.
Roll the panel up, starting with the pole, again ensuring that there are not too many creases.
Removing the front and back panels:
This is probably the most problematic operation as you have to deal with a door that may open, a lower door flap that will attack your shins, and a chance that one or both of the panels will probably fall on you.
Having a second set of hands is definitely a plan at this stage.
I started with the door panel, as I thought that it would get the most troublesome one out of the way.
The two bars where still in place, so that the front and back panels would hold each other up.
First I closed the door and clicked the lock so that it would not accidentally open. I the started removing most of the screws from the hinges to the side of the door. It is at this stage that I found out that wrecked screw heads were a real problem.
Suddenly everything started going a bit mad. On trying to lift the door panel out the lower door started swinging about, then the two cross bars slipped and the back panel attacked me. I finally managed to get the panel out and lower the back one.
I would strongly recommend that you remove the lower door panel first, or make sure you have that second set of hands available.
I still did not have a second set of hands, so spent some minutes trying to work out how to hold the panel upright, and not allow it fall outwards, whilst trying to get a screw driver at the screws.
It was at this point I went to find more hands. Removal of the rear panel was really easy from there on.
The lower section of the door needs replacing, as water damage has caused the ply to split apart.
Removing the bed units:
The first thing to do is remove the foam covered strip that runs the length of each join.
There is no real easy way to do this. The side in the bed unit is stapled, and the other side is a baton riveted to the frame. As I was planning to replace both the vinyl and the foam, so just ripped it out with brute force.
I then folded the metal hoops so each one laid over its own bed unit, and then tied the ropes/string to the tie off points underneath the bed unit.
You then just need to unscrew the hinges from the bed unit, leaving the hinges riveted to the outside panel/frame.
You should now be left with the main trailer.
The next job is to clean off the sub-frame ready for a new coat of underseal.